Getting There

There are three main ways of reaching the First and Second World War battlefields of north-western Europe:

• i) Car Ferry
• ii) Eurotunnel
• iii) Eurostar

i) Car Ferry
This is still my favourite mode of transport to the battlefields. Although slower in actual crossing time than Eurotunnel, it always seems to be quicker in loading and unloading and the wonderful views of the White Cliffs and the French coast always make you feel that it’s part of the holiday rather than just the journey there.

Dover to Calais – The most popular ferry route and almost certainly the quickest wherever you live in the UK to destinations along the old Western Front like the Ypres Salient, the Artois battlefields, the Somme, the Champagne battlefields and Verdun. There are numerous sailings to choose from and prices are competitive – if you block-book early. For further information the following companies run services on this route:

P&O Ferries at www.poferries.com/tourist/
Sea France www.seafrance.com/seafrance/opencms/uk/en/passenger/

Photo: Mark Sluman.

Dover to Dunkerque – If you’re visiting sites in northern Belgium (or the Dunkerque beaches themselves) you may want to consider using Norfolk Line services from Dover direct to Dunkerque. Because of the increased sailing time and the closeness of Calais by road (just 25 minutes away), there’s probably not a lot in it if you’re looking to travel to the Ypres Salient and, of course, there’s less choice of sailings. For further information, visit www.norfolkline-ferries.co.uk/en/dd-passenger.

Dover to Boulogne – Following the demise of Speedferries in late 2008, LD Lines has commenced a new Dover-Boulogne and Dover-Dieppe ferry service from 12 February 2009. This provides a number of new possibilities for travellers - although the 4 hour crossing time to Dieppe does not really give any significant time savings over taking the Dover-Calais route and then driving there. For further information, visit www.ldlines.co.uk.

Ramsgate to Boulogne – A new company, Euroferries, had stated its intention to open a new, fast ferry route to Boulogne in 2008. However, much to the author's surprise(!) this plan has now been scuppered and LD Lines and Transeuropa Ferries will transfer one of their ferries from Dover, to begin a Ramsgate to Ostend service in March 2010. For further information, visit www.ldlines.co.uk.

Newhaven to Dieppe – LD Lines (Transmanche Ferries) and Transeuropa Ferries have now started sailings on this route – the SeaCat having departed a couple of years ago. However, at four hours crossing time this will probably only benefit those living in East Sussex if they’re thinking of touring the direct vicinity of Dieppe or travelling down to Normandy. For further information, visit www.ldlines.co.uk.

Portsmouth to Le Havre – LD Lines have just commenced sailings on this route. Unfortunately, journey times are long and sailings few. However, as the sailings run overnight, those prepared to forego some sleep may find this a useful way of maximising time spent exploring. For further information, visit www.ldlines.co.uk.

Portsmouth to Normandy – For those living in the Midlands, Wales, central South or South-West of the UK this route is a potential alternative if you want to explore the Normandy beaches and battlefields. LD Lines run a daily service for Le Havre using a fast SeaCat, the "Norman Arrow" which takes just 3hr 15min to complete the journey. Brittany Ferries run services into Ouistreham (Caen’s port) and Cherbourg. Ferry journey times are long but SeaCats now operate on both routes with journey times of 3 ¾ and 3 hours respectively. For further information, visit www.ldlines.co.uk and www.brittanyferries.co.uk.

Dover Eastern Docks. Photo: Mark Sluman.

ii) Eurotunnel
The quickest way to get to the Continent in terms of journey time, although loading, unloading and passport control can seem to drag and facilities are fairly limited once you’re on the train. Of course, sitting in your car inside a speeding metal box inside a concrete tube isn’t everyone’s idea of travel and, if you suffer even remotely from claustrophobia, you’ll be yearning for the open deck, shopping and restaurant areas of the ferries sailing several hundred feet above you!

Embarkation is at Folkestone – the entrance to the terminal being well signposted from the M20 motorway. For further information about Eurotunnel visit www.eurotunnel.com.

iii) Eurostar
The passenger equivalent of Eurotunnel, Eurostar provides an interesting alternative to taking your car. Terminals at London St. Pancras and Ebbsfleet whisk passengers to Calais, Lille, Paris and Brussels in a couple of hours. On the way back, if you upgrade to first-class, you can view the beautiful French and Belgian countryside with a glass of champagne in your hand and a delicious three-course meal to look forward to – an ideal end to a battlefield tour. This method of travel is a really good option if you’re looking to visit the battlefields of Operation Market Garden in Holland. The Dutch railway system is superb and the train can easily reach most locations. Hire a bicycle and you’re away! Change at Brussels Sud for trains to Amsterdam. For further information about Eurostar, visit www.eurostar.com/dynamic/index.jsp.